THE DISH: Semeinye Traditsy
Semeinye Traditsy//65 Kronverksky Prospekt//Tel. 405 9413//Open 11 a.m. to 11p.m.//Menu in Russian and English//Dinner for two 1,670 rubles ($52)
Published: August 28, 2012 (Issue # 1724)
An eye for detail
Peering from outside through the aquarium-sized windows of this restaurant into the interior with its blue- and green-colored walls, bookshelves covering the back wall and dark Viennese cafe chairs feels like looking into a ship’s cabin or a private library.
Looking out from the inside, sitting on one of the sofas facing the windows, guests have a cinematic view of Kronverksky Prospekt and Alexandrovsky park that is no less impressive. The other tables scattered in the corners of the room instead offer an overview of the pocket-sized restaurant and make diners feel comfortably sheltered from attention.
Semeinye Traditsy (Family Traditions) is a restaurant full of details to fuel the imagination, one of which is tablemats and lampshades displaying drawings of family scenes. White floor tiles running diagonally and interspersed with burgundy-colored tiles that match the table varnish add to the carefully composed, but unpretentious ambience of the cafe.
An eye for detail can also be discerned in the crockery on which the various courses are served. To start with the dessert, Grandma Tanya’s pear tarte tatin (180 rubles, $5.70), as succulent and buttery as if cooked by a French lover, came on an oval plate with a scoop of ice cream residing in a tiny extra bowl, while an angular plate reflected the sour cream chocolate and nut cake (also 180 rubles), which tasted less of chocolate and nuts than of sour cream, but in a good way.
The tomato soup with fish and seafood (250 rubles, $7.80), chosen as a starter, arrived in an oval bowl floating on a longer plate like a small boat, and had an equally eloquent taste. A trapezoid form on the other hand made the beetroot salad with goat cheese and croutons (240 rubles, $7.50) open up in front of you like a garden, the chicory not only agreeing with the bitter taste of the arugula and mild goat cheese, but also with the color of the beets.
A pork chop (370 rubles, $11.55) was served atop a bed of mashed potato and onion marmalade in the center of a much larger plate, and was both juicy and crispy. While the mashed potato was somewhat ordinary, the marmalade, which was reminiscent of chutney, was delectably roasted.
A cinnamon stick crowned with mint leaves adorning the stewed vegetables with haricot beans, mint and cinnamon (240 rubles, $7.50) made them resemble a miniature tropical island on a plate. Unfortunately, the pale particles of carrot, zucchini and white beans were taste-wise rather reminiscent of the contents of a can, uniting three rather tasteless kinds of vegetable, so that compared with the other dishes, this one did not quite live up to what its name had promised.
Another small setback was that there was no wine on the menu and that beer was unavailable, but the cider (150 rubles, $4.70) was good and the dried fruit compote (60 rubles, $1.90) had a honeyed but not overly sweet taste.
The compact restaurant was pleasantly filled with diners, but the lines of sight are so well dispersed that guests can feel comfortably private. A highlight was the waitresses, who were attentive but unobtrusive, staying behind the counter even as it drew nearer to closing time.
It is never easy to find a name for a restaurant, and perhaps this one does not quite sum up the recipe of the venue. “Family Traditions” might suggest a more traditional, noisy, rustic place than this is, and might not sound very evocative to someone looking for a special place to eat.
In reality, this is a place that is about as relaxed, cultured and enjoyable as can be found in the city.